Val de Loire, FR, 2026

Barbara and I recently finished another self-guided bicycle tour, this time through a portion of the Loire Valley. Our goal was to see some countryside, see (and stay at) some fabulous chateaux, eat well, and drink some wine. Mission accomplished, but with a secondary, unexpected, thread–a Tomb Tour of sorts.

Starting in Amboise, we found the Chateau du Clos Luce’, where Leonardo da Vinci spent the last three years of his life, working and running a school, under the patronage of King Francis I. He died there and is buried nearby in a chapel at the Amboise Chateau Royal. (Top two photos)

In Saint Patrice we stayed at the Chateau de Rochecotte (just..wow!) where the area just outside our suite’s patio door was next to this Chapel memorializing Prince Talleyrand. (Middle left photo)

At the last stop on our ride we stayed at the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud, discovering in the chapel there the tombs of Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II, and Richard I (the Lionheart).

Have you ever realized you know of something, but don’t really know anything about it? That was my take on Eleanor, so I looked her up. Pretty impressive lady. She inherited Aquitaine, the largest and richest section of France (bigger and richer than the territory controlled by the King), and became the Duchess at 15. She married Louis VII in 1137, and became Queen of France for 15 years.

Having no male heirs they got an annulment in 1152 and she hooked up with Henry, Duke of Normandy, marrying him later that year, and in 1154 he became King of England, and she, Queen. Two of their sons, Richard the Lionheart, and John, eventually became Kings of England.

Before that, when two of their sons, including Richard, revolted against their father the King, she supported them, and was imprisoned by her husband for 16 years.

But, she had the last word, living to the age of 80, outlasting them all. She had Henry II (husband, with her in bottom left photo) and Richard 1 (son, bottom right photo) buried at her place in Fontevraud Abbey.

One of the things I enjoy about travel is seeing/doing things I’ve been interested in, and planned as part the trip. Often, even more pleasure comes from the unexpected encounters with people, history, landscapes that teach me something I was not anticipating. Like Magellan, Columbus, or Lewis and Clark, I travel to see what I might discover, even though it may be something everyone else already knows.

For more of Bill’s photographs, go to https://www.billdurrence.com/index